Many cities can claim pizza or hot dogs as their specialty, but no one else can claim the Italian beef. That’s why I think it's funny that Chicago is only just now getting an Italian Beef Fest. It begins Friday in Jefferson Park.
The former Jeff Fest rebranded to focus on the simple yet delicious thinly sliced beef, dipped in gravy or jus of garlic, oregano, and other spice blends. You can add giardiniera, sweet peppers, and (arguably) cheese, all served on a white flour roll. To me, it’s perfect. And it certainly tastes better when someone isn’t in your ear saying they “don’t find wet meat appetizing.”
We’ve been fighting about this for a while, but the truth is, I am the lone Italian beef lover on the City Cast team. Creative producer Emmi Mack is a hot dog expert — she even got her degree. And host Jacoby Cochran took me to his favorite sandwich shop to try the sweet steak. Both iconic, but I still think the beef takes it all.
A brief beef history: In “Made in Chicago: Stories Behind 30 Great Hometown Bites,” Monica Eng and David Hammond point to three possible origin stories:
- Al’s #1 Italian Beef: Their website claims that they were “the beef stand that launched the national sandwich of Chicago,” in Little Italy. At the end of World War I, Anthony Ferreri was at an Italian “peanut wedding” where they served a beef roast sliced by hand and made sandwiches out of it. He sliced the beef much thinner, cooked it in its juices, some secret spices, and the “Beef Sandwich” was born.
- Scala Packing Co.: This theory points to Scala Packing Co., the meat wholesaler, and to Lucca Bakery on South Western Avenue.
- It was working-class Italians: The third, less commercial origin story is that the idea came from working-class families at weddings, and so the glory belongs to them.
‘The Bear’ effect: Before FX’s hit show “The Bear,” many non-Chicagoans had no idea what an Italian beef was. Now, out-of-towners, and probably locals alike, flock to Mr. Beef — the River North establishment “The Bear” is based on. Creator and showrunner Christopher Storer grew up in Park Ridge, where he would meet his childhood friend and later Mr. Beef owner, Chris Zucchero.
“Dipped, mozz cheese, hot peppers.” That’s my order. I grew up getting it at Nicky’s in Gage Park, and I don’t care if I get shamed for getting it at Portillo’s once in a while! Here are a few other spots the internet loves:
- Johnnie's Beef in Elmwood Park
- Carm’s in Little Italy
- Bob-O’s Hot Dogs in Irving Woods
Another rec: Despite my love for Italian beef, I actually think the jibarito is the best Chicago sandwich. The Puerto Rican-Chicago fusion plantain steak sammy is usually up north, most popularly in Humboldt Park, but Jibaritos y Más Southside opened in Garfield Ridge. Even the White Sox started to offer it in section 104 this season, and the Cubs debuted them at Wrigley just last year. Please, keep the jibaritos coming to all parts of the city … Maybe next year, Jibarito Fest?
- We did rank our favorite Chicago sandwiches … but let’s not pit two beautiful meals against each other.
Something we can all agree on: None of these sandwiches would exist without immigrants' influence. Even the Chicago dog’s got that story. Migration makes magic.
