The Parson’s Chicken and Fish in Andersonville is closing. So is the Big Star in West Town. While these closings may not seem related, both were the newest (and third) locations of their respective franchises. Both franchises found fast popularity in the 2010s. Both franchises are also part of larger restaurant groups.
Many of Chicago’s most famous dining spots are.
What Is a Restaurant Group?
In a restaurant group, a single parent company owns and operates different restaurants. For example, one of the country’s largest restaurant groups, Darden, owns both Olive Garden and LongHorn Steakhouse.
But Chicago is something of a ground zero for local restaurant groups.
The Lettuce Entertain You group started 50 years ago here, with R.J. Grunts. In addition to popularizing the salad bar, the group helped shape Chicago foodie culture as it grew to include more conceptual eateries like Cafe Ba-Ree-Ba!, Ed Debevic’s, and Maggiano’s. (The latter two are no longer Lettuce.) Lettuce founder Rich Melman also helped start the Taste of Chicago in 1980.
Today, the field of restaurant groups in Chicago is much more crowded. Parson’s belongs to Land and Sea Dept., as does longtime Logan Square hot spot Longman & Eagle and Dicey’s. Big Star is a part of One Off Hospitality, alongside buzzy Avec and Publican Quality Bread. Gibsons Restaurant Group, naturally, includes Gibsons plus a slate of other high-end downtown options. (Quartino is a good bang for your buck.)
Another major player, Boka, recently took over all dining and drinking within the Chicago Athletic Association. That includes Cindy’s Rooftop and a new omakase venture, Midōsuji. But what do restaurants within the same group have in common?
The Great Chain Debate
It’s not news that a chain structure can lead to bigger revenue. And yes, restaurant groups pretty much operate as chains. Chains with highly individualized outputs, perhaps, but chains all the same, as a professor of hospitality administration told Eater.
Chains also have strong branding. As the industry remains volatile, it’s helpful to maintain a solid brand. Being affiliated with a group means professionals can handle marketing, in addition to other administrative tasks that saddle independent restaurant owners.
That’s also why the rise of chains — or whatever you want to call them — represents an “existential crisis” for independent restaurant owners. As the Tribune Editorial board put it recently, "Only restaurants funded by chains and private equity groups are growing in Chicago.”
A Chain Bust?
With the Parson’s and Big Star closings, it would seem even chains are struggling. Then again, open your eyes and you’ll notice Small Chevals popping up everywhere. (Those are operated by another restaurant group, Hogsalt.)
Tastes change. Corporate backing is forever.
